Ball Python Poop Main

Reptile poop is so fascinating because it can reveal so much about our cold-blooded pets. Depending on its appearance, consistency, and frequency, we can tell whether there’s something wrong with our Royals or if they’re perfectly happy. Here’s how.

Understanding How Ball Pythons Poop

A ball python’s pooping process is pretty similar to what other animals do. The snake gets hungry, it munches on some delicious food, which then passes through the digestive tract. Once all the nutrients are absorbed, the snake excretes the remnants. Sounds pretty straightforward, right?


Well, the biggest difference between ball pythons, and reptiles in general, is that they eliminate poop, and pee from an opening called the cloaca, and not the urethra or anus.

The Poop Frequency

Another thing that all snake-owners should know is that reptiles don’t start expelling their waste until they’ve completely digested it. So depending on how big their meal was, their poop frequency may vary, and shouldn’t cause a lot of concern.


Also, instead of making a few tiny deposits, snakes will have a single big one, and go on about their day. With that said, the process can last anywhere from a couple of days to weeks.


The first sign that something’s wrong with our ball python is if it poops a few times in between meals. That means that it might be experiencing diarrhea or is sick.

Ball Python Poop

What Exactly Does Healthy Poop Look Like?

Those who had their pet pythons for a while will already know what healthy poop looks like. But we wanted to go over it one more time, just in case. “Normal” python poop tends to be brown or black, sometimes with a chalky white part, and with small amounts of mucous.


On the other hand, unhealthy poop is easy to spot because it can be green, yellow, red, or white. The best course of action when we spot any irregularities is to collect a sample right away and take it to an exotic animal vet. They should test it for parasites and disease, and we’ll have an answer pretty quickly.

When Should We Be Worried?

In addition to a change of color, another telltale sign that something’s wrong is when our precious python has been constipated and hasn’t regurgitated in a while. If left unchecked, that can lead to impaction, which is a serious medical condition and requires intervention.


A dead giveaway that a snake is struggling with impaction is if it’s feeling sluggish and weak. At that point, there’s no time to waste, and the python needs to see a vet.


But before we jump the gun, there are some things we can do to help with constipation/regurgitation. For one, we need to start giving our snake smaller prey, soak their food, and offer more water. We can also increase the humidity and change their substrate.

The Bottom Line on Ball Python Poop

Honestly, we’ve only scratched the surface when it comes to ball pythons and the things that come out of them. But our general advice for all reptile-lovers is to go see a vet if they’re concerned.


If the snake’s poop is a strange color or it hasn’t pooped in a long while, the best person to determine what’s wrong is a professional. It’s just up to us to keep on top of the situation, and always be on the lookout for signs of trouble.

Ball Python Morph

Friendly and shorter than other snakes, ball pythons are some of the most popular snake types out there. Thanks to their easy-to-follow care instructions, ball pythons make for great beginner snakes. However, before buying one, new snake owners must make a difficult choice — what morph to buy?

What are Morphs?

Because of their unique skin appearance, some captive ball pythons are selectively bred to create specific colors or patterns. Ball python morph is the name given to such snakes.


Similar to humans, the genes that give each snake its distinctive color or pattern are passed on through inheritance. As a result, genes can be dominant, recessive, or codominant. Breeders can produce different types of morphs by combining those three genes:


  • Dominant genes hide recessive genes and dictate the color or pattern of the morph.
  • Recessive genes stay hidden until paired with other recessive genes.
  • Codominant genes have incomplete dominance and result in unique combinations of dominant patterns.

Most Common Ball Python Morphs

There are hundreds of combinations and patterns out there with each one more beautiful than the last. Let’s take a look at the most common ball python morphs and see what fits you the best.


The Albino morph is one of the most popular and impressive morphs out there. Melanin is a brown pigment that makes a normal ball python look a bit dark. However, the Albino python is unable to produce this pigment and the result is a white and faded-yellow snake with red eyes. With a price to match the looks, the Albino ball python is available for a  $400 price tag.


The Spider morph is a unique looking snake with tan-brown base colors that fade down the spine. Their pale belly and distinct dark spots on the head and body make them easily recognizable. Thanks to their spider-like appearance, the prices for such a morph go a bit above the $150 mark.

Ball Python Morph Main


Pastel ball pythons are some of the most interesting morph types thanks to their breeding possibilities. Because the pastel gene is codominant, combining two of them results in a totally different type of snake. Ball pythons resulting from such breedings are called Super Pastel and have lighter colors and patterns. Despite its breeding potential, most Pastel snakes cost around $70, with the better looking Super Pastel going up to $150.


Similar to Albino ball python, Ghost morphs suffer from melanin disorders. However, unlike their paler counterpart, Ghosts have hypomelanism. That results in a light tan or yellow skin, with gray patterns sometimes appearing on the snake’s belly. You can buy a Ghost ball python for $100 or more depending on the pattern it has.


Overall, choosing a morph boils down to personal taste. There are a lot of options — from beautiful light colors to unique patterns. As a result, ball pythons are one of the most gorgeous snake types available. No matter what you choose, every snake requires love and care. Watch out for our hissing friends and they will watch out for you!

Ball Python Feeding Chart

Taking care of cats and dogs is easy enough — you can find information about their feeding and needs just about anywhere. But what if you’re taking care of a more exotic animal, such as a ball python? Figuring out the right diet and how often you should feed it is not quite as simple. To help you give your pet the best possible care, we’ve prepared this ball python feeding chart with all the info you need!

Ball Python Feeding Chart — What You Need to Know

When you’re deciding what and how often to feed your snake, make sure to measure its weight first. The lighter the python is, the smaller the prey. Also, feeding is more frequent when the snake is still young and slowly becomes rarer as it grows.


But let’s convert that into real numbers for your convenience. For the first 5-3 meals, you should give your python a small pinky rat or a hopper mouse every five days. As your pet becomes larger, start feeding it bigger rodents — but do so less frequently. For instance, once its weight reaches 200-350 grams, you should start giving it adult mice and rat pups every seven to ten days.


Next on the list are weaned rats and jumbo mice, which you should give to your snake every 10-14 days. By then, its weight should be around 350-500 grams. At the next stage — 500-1500 grams — your python will enjoy small rats every two to three weeks. Finally, once the scales show over 1500 grams, you can give it medium-sized rats. No need to feed it quite often either — once every 28-56 days will suffice.

Ball Python Feeding Chart Main

Keep in mind that ball pythons are not all the same. While this chart provides some basic guidelines, it may not be 100% true for all pythons. So instead of blindly following it, take your pet’s needs into account. If you notice it needs feeding more frequently or prefers a different kind of prey, then adjust this chart accordingly.

Where to Buy Food for Ball Pythons

To get proper nutrition, ball pythons need to eat whole animals — just like they do in the wild. Some owners offer their snakes live rodents, but they can injure your pet while fighting to survive. Thus, the safest option is buying frozen prey and thawing it before feeding.


Luckily, there are numerous places where you can buy frozen rodents. For instance, your local pet store probably offers a few varieties, as well as a local breeder.


Beware of chain pet stores like Petsmart or Petco, though — the food is often of low quality and may give your snake food poisoning. If all else fails, you can always turn to online shops, where you’ll certainly find what you need.

In Conclusion

Taking care of a snake is no walk in the park, but with a little research, it’s not impossible either. This ball python feeding chart should give you enough info to get started. But don’t hesitate to adjust it as you get to know your pet. Soon enough, you won’t use any chart at all — you’ll know what your python needs just by looking at it!

Ball Python Scale Rot

Scale rot is a common problem many Ball Python owners encounter. If left untreated, it can be fatal. However, there are ways to prevent and treat Ball Python scale rot.

Ideally, you should check your Ball Python for scale rot at least two times a week, or even more frequently if you suspect your Python is infected. This way, you’ll know your pet snake has scale rot as soon as it appears, and you’ll be able to treat it accordingly. Here’s what you need to know about the prevention and treatment of Ball Python scale rot.

Ball Python Scale Rot Prevention

It’s always better to prevent a problem than to treat it. Here’s what we can do every day to prevent Ball Python scale rot from appearing.

Moisture Control

Snakes are highly specific about their moisture and humidity needs. Ball Pythons prefer the cage they are in at about 50-60% humidity, unless they’re shedding, in which case they like it at around 65-75%. Snakes are wild animals, so they need an environment that mimics the one they live in naturally. That’s why humidity can cause many problems in snakes, whether it’s too high or too low.

To get humidity under control, you should be mindful of two things — heat and airflow. Use heat lamps to ensure your ball python’s cage isn’t too cold. Along with keeping the temperature optimal, heat lamps burn off moisture, so high humidity won’t be a problem. Additionally, you should make sure to keep your python away from drafts, as they don’t like cold airflow.

Ball Python Scale Rot

Proper Substrate

When buying bedding, you should keep two key things in mind. Firstly, the substrate shouldn’t be too coarse because it can cause scratches and harm your snake. Secondly, it should collect feces and odors effectively.

Sand collects waste, but it’s too rough for Ball Pythons. That means it can scratch your snake, causing scale rot. Instead, you should opt for newspapers or towels. They’re gentle on the Python’s skin, collect waste, and are easily replaceable.

Cypress mulch is also a great choice. It holds enough humidity, won’t be too rough on your snake, and it looks good. However, as mites tend to live in cypress woods, you should be careful about mite infestation.

Ball Python Scale Rot Treatment

No matter what you do to prevent it, scale rot may still appear. If you notice scale discoloration, blisters, or raised scales, you should start treating your snake immediately. Here’s what you should do to treat Ball Python scale rot:

Clean the Cage and Quarantine Your Snake

Clean the cage thoroughly. You should also remove the bedding and clean everything that was in the cage. Additionally, put your snake in another enclosed space, with clean, soft towels underneath. This way, your snake can quarantine until you wash it. Clean the rest of the area where your snake usually is. Once your snake is healed, throw away any towels you used for it while it was quarantined.

Betadine Bath

Betadine baths are a great way to treat scale rot. You’ll need a large container and a bottle of betadine solution. Pierce a few holes on the lid of the container so the snake can breathe. Fill the container halfway with a mixture of lukewarm water and betadine (10:1). Place the snake in the container and close it. Leave it in for about 30 minutes, and dry it thoroughly afterward.


By keeping a few things in mind, you can easily prevent Ball Python scale rot. However, if scale rot does appear, you need to act fast in treating it. Early treatment of scale rot can save your Ball Python’s life.


Temperature for Ball Python

For humans, the right temperature usually boils down to personal preference. That’s not the case when it comes to snakes, though, as temperature affects their overall health. Ball pythons, for example, simply don’t function like they should when exposed to too much or not enough heat. Setting up the enclosure might be confusing for new owners as getting it right requires a bit of knowledge. No matter why you are here, we’ll try to help you understand all about the proper temperature for ball python.

Ball Python Temperature

Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles, meaning that they get all their required heat from the environment. In the case of improper heating and inconsistent humidity levels, they tend to stop eating and then go inactive. That is the main reason maintaining a proper enclosure temperature is so important.


Ball pythons are native to Africa and can be found in grasslands and savannas. As a result, the temperature they thrive in averages between 68–86°F, with spikes up to 96°F. It’s worth noting that ball pythons enjoy borrows with much lower and more stable temperatures — 72–80°F mostly.


All of that means that snake owners should create a thermal gradient in the pet’s enclosure — with warmer and cooler areas. Start with a warm side, with an average surface temperature of 95–100°F, and gradually lower it to 75°F tops. When it comes to night time, the average temperature for ball python can be around 75°F.

Temperature for Ball Python

It’s important to know that air temperature and surface temperature are not one and the same. While the air might feel mild, the surface temperature could be much hotter.

Temperature Tips

The first thing any ball python owner should do is to keep track of all enclosure temperatures. The surface temperature can be measured using an infrared thermometer. Meanwhile, use a normal digital thermometer for air temperature measurements. Keep in mind that the air temperature should never go over 95°F. In case you have trouble raising the heat in the enclosure, there are some devices that could help you.


Heating pads and lamps are just a few of the devices that can help with temperature issues. When choosing between the two, it’s important to know that both of them affect humidity. If the enclosure is already somewhat dry, using a heating lamp will make things worse. The heating pad is the ideal solution as it provides heat from below. As a result, it only changes the surface temperature and not the air. Place the pad under the substrate in the warm area for the best results. Make sure to also use a thermostat, as some heating pads tend to overheat.


A radiant heat panel is another product similar to heat pads. Thanks to its placement on top of the tank, a radiant heat panel will distribute heat evenly. As with the pads, it’s important to use a thermostat that will regulate the temperature of the heat panel.


Important: Avoid heat rocks at all costs as they are dangerous and could hurt your hissing friend.


Overall, snakes can make for some exotic, long-term companions. Researching the proper temperature for ball python is just the start of the journey. We recommend looking up humidity next as it’s usually tied to the enclosure temperature. In the end, while owning a snake is hard work, try to make it easier by listening to your hissing friend.

Ball Python Humidity

When people think about getting a pet, they usually think of a cat or a dog, maybe even a guinea pig. Still, an increasing number of people are starting to take interest in more… well, scaly pets, such as snakes. Among the most common choices for such a companion is the ball python. But with a unique set of requirements, ball pythons are not the right pets for everyone. Humidity, for example, is one of the most important factors of every snake’s life. If you are a new snake owner or in need of advice, here are some key aspects when it comes to ball python humidity requirements. 

What Is Humidity?

Humidity, in rough terms, is what we call the quantity of water present in the air. So let’s say we live in a rainy area — we call that a high humidity zone. Likewise, deserts are considered low humidity zones thanks to their lack of water in the air.


The difference between high and low humidity areas is highly noticeable. The former is described by its heavy, warm air — usually making us feel sticky. Meanwhile, the latter has very dry and rough air.

Ball Python Humidity

Ball pythons are native to west Sub-Saharan Africa — grasslands and savannas. As a result, their natural habitat has an average humidity range of 45–75% with highs of up to 90% and lows of down to 30%. Shedding, and overall health, are usually affected by those humidity levels.


The consensus is that the overall humidity of the enclosure should be around 50-60%. It’s also worth noting that during the shedding cycle, ball pythons need more humidity to help them get rid of that old coat. It’s also better to provide different levels of humidity — with 50% on the warm side of the tank and 70–90% on the cooler side. Usually, snakes don’t mind a bit too much humidity, but go too low and they are going to have a hard time shedding their skin.

Ball Python Humidity

Humidity Tips

Changing the water bowl is the first thing you should do in case you have high humidity problems. A smaller bowl will result in less water available to evaporate, meaning lower humidity levels overall. You can also improve ventilation. Creating holes and vents in your ball enclosure will allow the dry air to flow in, while also getting rid of the humid air. Similarly, a dehumidifier can help with the overall room humidity levels.


Likewise, if the air is too dry, a humidifier can help raise the humidity levels. Also, avoid using heat lamps as they will dry up the enclosure too much. Heat mats, on the other hand, provide heat from below. That makes sure that any moisture on the bottom evaporates, resulting in increased humidity levels.


Lastly, don’t ignore the importance of bedding. Changing it whenever it feels too damp will reduce humidity. In contrast, wetting it will result in higher humidity levels.


All in all, it’s important to know that ball pythons have a hard time adapting to new environments. As a result, we advise trying to mimic their natural habitat as much as possible. Ball python humidity is just a piece of the puzzle. However, with knowledge and commitment, the other shall fall into place.

Guinea Pig Poop Healthy

Having a guinea pig is becoming increasingly popular and the reasons are obvious. They are utterly adorable balls of fluff. However, like all other pets, guinea pigs are prone to having multiple health issues. One quick way to diagnose a guinea pig health problem is to observe their poop. Yes, you read that right — poop. Just like human stool, guinea pig poop problems might be the first sign pointing toward a bigger problem. Let’s take a look into how reading guinea pig poop can help you understand more about their health. 

A Sensible Subject

While it may seem outlandish to some, keeping track of their pet’s defecation is something that many people do. Cat and dog owners are already familiar with this procedure as it helps them figure out what to and what not to feed their pets. However, before you start picking your furry friends’ poop, you need to understand that there are different types of defecation.


Small pets, such as guinea pigs and rabbits, produce two types of stool — fecal pellets and cecotropes. The former are usually small, individual balls while the latter are larger, shiny, and have the appearance of grapes. You can think of fecal pellets as your typical poop, while cecotropes have a more practical purpose.

Guinea Pig Poop

Full of nutrients and vitamins, cecotropes are usually re-ingested by guinea pigs so they can make the most of their food. No matter how disgusting that might sound, it’s important to note that guinea pigs are cecotrophic, meaning that cecotropes are produced via a separate mechanism than fecal pellets. So there’s no need to worry about your small friends’ poop diet.

Where to Start?

Firstly, you should start with the obvious signs of something not being alright — shape and color. While dark, almost black poop can indicate high protein levels in the food, it’s worth noting that it might also point to internal bleeding. Meanwhile, egg or teardrop-shaped excrements can also mean some nutrition imbalance. You can try changing the fiber and protein levels of the food while also avoiding high sugar input.


Secondly, watch out for slimy or soft feces. The most common cause of slime is an active or recent antibiotic treatment. If your pet hasn’t been receiving any treatment, gastrointestinal parasites might be the culprits. While some slime might not be completely abnormal, common occurrences should be reason enough to check in with your local vet.


Last but not least, there’s diarrhea. While there are many factors that can cause diarrhea, you should seek professional advice no matter what. With causes ranging from an unbalanced diet to infections, diarrhea is a huge red flag. The first 24 hours are most critical so you need to get help as soon as possible.

The End of the Trail

Overall, your guinea pig’s health needs to be your utmost priority. For that reason, you should do your best to research and understand all aspects of their life — even the more disgusting ones. Don’t forget that a balanced diet, an active and healthy style, as well as love need to be your go-to rules when it comes to every pet. Better prevent than treat — guinea pig poop checks should be something you do regularly. Don’t be afraid to stick it out for your furry companion!

Guinea Pig Sneeze

A guinea pig — small, fluffy, and, at first glance, low maintenance. Seems like the perfect companion for people without a lot of free time. However, even though guinea pigs are not as big as other animals, they are still prone to health issues. The most common question people have is about guinea pig sneezing. What does it mean and when should you go to the vet? Worry not, as we will explain the ins and outs of this human-like behavior.


Bless you, little friend! What seems to be a human-bound behavior might have a deeper meaning when it comes to guinea pigs. Usually, a guinea pig sneezes an average of 1–2 times a day. That’s normal, as they do it to remove particles stuck in their little noses. We recommend paying close attention to other common symptoms.


If there are indeed no follow-ups to the sneezes but they are still a common occurrence, it might mean that your house is triggering an allergic reaction in your pet. Smoke and dust are the usual suspects when it comes to allergens. Another easy way to see if there’s an allergic reaction is by checking their eyes. Any discharge, green or yellow, might either confirm the allergy theory or point toward an infection. 

Guinea Pig Sneezing

As with all health problems, you might notice a pattern that can help you pinpoint the exact cause of the sneezing. Watch and see what triggers it — is the bedding absorbent? If not, it might cause the aforementioned allergic reaction. Is the cage clean enough? Guinea pigs need a frequently cleaned living space. Try cleaning or changing his cage and bedding and see if there are any results.

The Big Guns: Vets

If the sneezing still hasn’t stopped, you should try and pay even more attention to their daily routine. Weight loss, lethargy, and aversion to eating might point to something more serious. You can even try changing the food as it may cause some problems with the digestive system.


However, this all might point toward something bigger and harder to treat at home. If that’s the case, you should contact your local vet. You need to do this as soon as you notice anything different in their usual routine, as that might rule out allergy. Not going to a doctor in time might lead to long-lasting problems or even worse.


Once you are at the veterinarian, they might do some tests to determine the cause of the sneezing. Blood tests and X-rays are not only common but also recommended in such cases, so don’t worry about them. Even if the sneezes prove to be just a normal reaction to food or the environment, it’s better to be safe than sorry.


The Overall Picture

All in all, for the most part, guinea pig sneezing is a rather normal thing. While we suggest taking your pet for a check pretty regularly, it’s usually the environment that matters the most. Sensitive little noses mean high hygiene requirements, making this little ball of fur not as easy to maintain as most people believe. Don’t let guinea pig sneezing turn you off from owning such a cute critter, though — they are worth all your time and money!

Can Guinea Pig Eat

If you’re the first-time owner of a guinea pig, then you’re probably wondering what the best food options for your new pet are. Luckily, we’ve made a comprehensive list of all the foods you can give your little piggy, as well as a list of foods to avoid.

Additionally, you’ll find some great treat options you can give to your furry friend from time to time. So, let’s answer the question ― can my guinea pig eat this?

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Apples?

Apples are incredibly healthy for us, however, they contain a lot of sugar. That’s why you should only let your guinea pig eat apples as a treat.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Cherries?

Cherries are perfectly safe for guinea pigs to eat, but only from time to time. If you’re planning on giving some to your pet, make sure you take out the pit first.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Grapes?

Although high in sugar, grapes contain plenty of vitamin C, which is an essential vitamin for guinea pigs. However, when giving your piggy grapes, make sure to cut each grape in half, and remove the seeds. Feel free to give your pet a few grapes throughout the week.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Bananas?

Basically, guinea pigs adore bananas. However, if you plan on feeding them to your pet, make sure you only do so once a week and only a few pieces as they are incredibly sweet.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Celery?

Celery is perfectly safe for guinea pigs to eat. However, it’s not the most nutritional food, so you should consider adding it to your piggy’s other food to add volume.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Grass?

Overall, grass is exceptionally healthy for your guinea pig. What’s more, you can grab some fresh grass from your backyard and give it to your pet anytime!

Can Guinea Pig Eat Grass

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Strawberries?

Strawberries contain plenty of Vitamin C, but since they’re high in sugar, you should give them to your piggy as a treat, in small quantities.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Peppers?

Peppers are yet another food that contains plenty of Vitamin C, but unlike strawberries, they don’t contain a lot of sugar which makes them a great food choice for your pet.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Sweet Potatoes?

Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes are perfectly safe for your guinea pig. 

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Tomatoes?

Feel free to feed your piggy some tomatoes several times a week. However, make sure you cut them up into small pieces and don’t let them eat the stem.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Broccoli?

Broccoli is yet another healthy food option for your pet, so if it likes eating it, go for it!

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Watermelon?

Although watermelon isn’t harmful for guinea pigs, make sure to feed it to your pet in moderation. Keep in mind that too much watermelon can lead to digestive problems.

Can Guinea Pigs Eat Mushrooms?

White button mushrooms, baby Bella mushrooms, and Portobello mushrooms are all good choices, however, you should only feed them to your pet uncooked.

Can Guinea Pig Eat Carrot

Foods to Avoid

  1. Cabbage isn’t a good food choice for your guinea pig as it leads to bloating.
  2. Some types of lettuce, although healthy, can give your piggy diarrhea (for example ― Iceberg lettuce). On the other hand, Romaine lettuce is a better alternative if you’re set on giving your pet some leafy greens.
  3. Cauliflower can cause bloating.
  4. Avocado is high in fat.
  5. Guinea pigs cannot digest cheese and other dairy products.
  6. Onions can cause blood disorders in guinea pigs.
  7. Potatoes aren’t safe for guinea pigs as they are full of alkaloids (toxins).
  8. Bread causes bloating.

What Else Can My Guinea Pig Eat?

Additionally, if you’ve already tried out the food options we mentioned, here are a few more things you can feed your guinea pig:

  • Cucumbers
  • Oranges
  • Blueberries
  • Peaches
  • Pears
  • Corn on the cob
  • Kale
  • Carrot
  • Zucchini
  • Brussel sprouts
  • Mango
  • Cilantro
  • Asparagus
  • Pineapple
  • Radishes
  • Parsley
  • Spinach (in moderate amounts)
  • Cantaloupe
  • Blackberries
  • Raspberries
Pregnant Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs are such tiny creatures that it’s hard to imagine that they can get pregnant — but they can, and they do. If that happens to your furry friend, you might suddenly realize you have no idea how to care for a pregnant guinea pig. But don’t worry — we will tell you all you need to know.

How to Tell If Your Guinea Pig Is Pregnant

A guinea pig pregnancy lasts only about 60 to 75 days, and it might come as quite a surprise — especially if you don’t recognize the signs. Pay close attention to your furry friend if you start noticing any changes to her routine or appearance. It might just mean that a whole tiny litter is on the way!


The first thing you might notice is that your guinea pig eats and drinks more than usual. Of course, that’s because the mom now has to feed her babies and help them grow. However, this change usually doesn’t happen at the beginning of pregnancy, but only after three or four weeks.


Then, you’ll notice that your once lean furry friend gained some weight and became pear-shaped. Also, her abdomen and lower sides will become firmer to the touch and more rounded. When you spot that, it’s almost certain that babies are coming in a few weeks!


But if you want to be 100% sure, you need to actually feel the young with your fingers. Don’t worry — we’re not advising you to somehow hurt your guinea pig. It’s enough to gently rub her abdomen when you notice these changes, and you’ll probably feel little bumps!

How to Care for Your Pregnant Guinea Pig

When you first find out that your guinea pig is expecting, you may be a little concerned. After all, you probably don’t know how to ensure your pet stays safe and healthy during pregnancy. But don’t worry — we are here to tell you all about guinea pig pregnancy and care.

Pregnant Guinea Pig Care

First of all, you should know that pregnancy is not that big of a deal for younger guinea pigs. Obviously, some will still have a harder time. But generally speaking, their pelvis should allow them to give birth naturally without complications.


However, if your guinea pig is older than seven months, make sure to talk to your vet. Sometimes, due to pelvis bones fusing together, older guinea pigs may have a hard time giving birth. Thus, it’s best to see if there’s a way to make the process easier.


Also, don’t forget to provide your furry friend with more nutrients during pregnancy. Aside from fresh water, pellets, and hay, make sure she gets enough vitamin C as well. Yellow, green, and red bell peppers are perfect sources of this nutrient. Top it all off with some delicious fresh greens, and your guinea pig will be healthier than ever!

In Conclusion

Now that you know how to recognize and care for a pregnant guinea pig, you have nothing to fear. In fact, you can even let yourself be excited — after all, a whole litter of tiny guinea pigs is coming soon!